We woke and were going to head to Fata Hiva. That was the plan. The reality was that upon rounding the island then heading South we were spanked hard by 25 knots of wind right on the nose and flung around by a pretty unruly sea that was causing the boat to slam this way and that. After an hour of so of this torture we decided to call it a day, turned back, and hid behind the shelter of the island with our tails between our legs. Everything instantly calmed down.
Part of the frustration of sailing is that you can’t sometimes get to where you wish to go. Well that’s not exactly true I guess. We could have battled away for 30 hours making painfully slow progress, causing some damage to the boat possibally as she ran into the waves, but where’s the fun in that? I’m sure Fata Hiva would have been amazing, it’s known as one of the worlds best anchorages, but we’ve been some pretty amazing places already so it was out.
We sailed back to the coast slightly deflated and anchored off the main village on Tahuta.
We got the dingy back in the water and headed ashore. We hiked around the small town for hours. Helen even made friends with some goats- it’s going to make eating the famed local goat curry a little harder.
The way of life here is really simple. Most houses have no windows or doors, there’s a small shop where you can get fresh bread, goat meat (oops), a few fruits and not a lot else. The church was stunning though, and clearly the centre of life there.
We love just wondering around places, and everyone we met was really welcoming.
So back on the boat later that afternoon we started chatting about what’s next.
Part of the beauty of sailing is you can just head off in a new direction. That’s what we did, on a whim (plus the wind in the anchorage was getting up) we set a new course for the Northern Islands, a few days ahead of when we were going to go, got the boat ready, and sailed off as the sun set for a 140 mile overnight crossing.
Take that weather! If we can’t beat you we’ll join you.